In another one of our animated air conditioning how to videos Bryan explains How to Leak Test an AC With Nitrogen Pressure.
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How to Leak Test an AC With Nitrogen Pressure
I love the way your teache , I wanna know more about A/C and Refrigeration, thank you
very good info, thanks
How much the test should cost
Indoor or out door split AC checking pressure 380 it's wrong or right
Thanks!
Nice video, is there any standar for nitrogen pressure for leakage test?
Sman 480v has a tightness test that accounts for temp which is nice
What brand of core removal tool, with side port, do you recommend?
Excellent. Thanks!
I have one question : What is the less purity of Nitrogen we must use for leak testing ???
Thanks for being the best HVAC/R school on the YouTube.
That is a Victor gauge. The Western HVAC regulators have fixed test pressures.
Thanks a lot sir 👍👍 you explains very good but too fast talking…
Sir ham 600psi peresure dety hin par suba kam hoa hota ha 560psi leakg b nhi ha …kia masla ho skta ha
Thankyou for the advice on the Schrader core leak test…Been doing this of and on since 1985 and still didn't figure that one out . My father taught me that if it leaks under high pressure it will leak under low pressure……Wouldn't nitrogen test at 75 lbs be just as effective under soap bubbles to the discerning eye….Nitrogen gas is a fairly small molecule and would leak more readily as opposed to cfc, hcfc, or hfc…
When adding nitrogen for a leak test do you guys recover all the freon before adding the nitrogen or do you add the nitrogen with freon in it
Hi, can anyone here let me know if its ok to charge r22 to a converted 407c system? I have a old r22 walk in cooler that was changed to 407c changed compressor . But there was a small leak, and the tech charged r22. Please let me know if that will cause a issue to the compressor. Appreciate your reply.
Do you need to pressure test on both the highside and lowside scrader valves?
Will be more helpful if speak slowly
And how is a leak fixed if one is found when nitrogen pressured?
Don't put the r410a in as vapor you will screw up the whole 30 pound jug
Do you use dry nitrogen?
If so where can you purchase?
Thanks
Will someone help me understand how to nitrogen purge, test, and vacuum the Entire system……. inside unit, line set and( THE OUTDOOR UNIT ) of a mini-split with only one service port? Seenville 12,000 btu heat pump. The system is 6 yrs old, was given to me with no refrigerant in it. The owner let me have it for free. He said the only problem was leaking flares. He hired a cheap guy on craigslist to fix it…..well the guy supposedly lost the charge and never came back to fix it. Professionals wanted to charge him enough to get him to just buy a new one. I carefully removed it from his home. I have 2 other mini splits that I installed myself and I love them….I have all necessary tools and know how to use them….what I don't know is if the outdoor unit will allow my nitrogen to flow all the way through it. How do I know if the entire system loop is accessible through the one service valve? Does the EEV need opened up with a doughnut magnet? Is there some refrigerant trapped in the compressor that could be contaminated with air/moisture…..how do I make sure I have a clean, dry, and tight system in this situation? I wish I could just make new flares, hook up the lines, open both hex ports add nitrogen to the one service valve on the larger line, fill it to 200 psig and crack the flare nut on the small line a let it purge out, then seal the system and do a leak test. Is it that easy? does the entire system loop pressurize ….or is there going to be some point where the nitrogen bypasses the compressor or EEV?
Question for all you intelligent HVAC people . What is the Max pressure you would pressurize a new lineset with a new condensing unit with charge behind the service valves . Would you worry about forcing nitrogen into the condensing unit with to high of testing pressure ?
Thanks for the useful video.
Thanks
suuuuuuuuuuper vid.
Thanks for a wonderful explanation
I would add . Even after recovery to prepare for a pressure test , the system will have some refrigerant in it . Do a quick pressure test to eliminate any huge leaks . Purge the system. Pull a quick vacuum to try and remove some of that residual refrigerant { in the compressor oil etc } The extra residual refrigerant will mess with pressure /temp swings way more than just nitrogen. And for you new guys that might have just glanced the part about a 600 psig test pressure, thinking more pressure is better ? Remember, a compressor shell can experience tons and tons of pressure on its walls. Add too much pressure and it can become a bomb. Going to extremes on pressure testing can become deadly.
Greetings from Greece😃. I'm a hvac technician and I have watched all of your video. I have to say that I learned (or understand) a lot of things. Keep the good work😉
Question unrelated to latest video: What temperature difference if any can be expected on a gas furnace in heat mode across the a/c evaporator coil?
Excellent way of teaching,god bless you.
Saluting you sir
Never ever ever ever ever ever put more than 350 PSi in a system. The compressor shell is rated around 350 PSI. The shell is never exposed to the output pressure of the compressor. 33 years experience working on heatpumps.
Did big blue change there product? I bought a 1 gallon jug to refill my spray bottle. I noticed the new stuff is thicker. Nothing on the jug says to dilute it.
Never knew what a hard shut off Txv was, seen that happen many times pressure testing splits. Thanks for the info!